I’ve always talked about cities the way I’d talk about lovers. There are some that I’ve just flirted with. Others I fell deeply in love with. Others still that were remote, exotic and mysterious. Some which immediately opened itself to me and I felt we shared a deep connection. And some which I did not get along with at all.
And what of Buenos Aires? How will I look back on this three month love affair?
One night a few of us ended up at this incredible milonga, which is a tango club. This milonga puts on a special Thursday night which is more about listening to young bands play very intense, theatrical tango music, rather than see any dance (no one is dancing as the music is performed, and the music is much quicker than usual).
We were buzzed in through the front door, and came up the stairs that opened up into this run down but atmospheric, old townhouse. There were young people sitting everywhere – and very few were drinking. Instead they sat hushed and cross-legged on the floor, entranced by the band playing some very moving music:
Click the above picture for my videos of the band.
We took videos and photos throughout the performances. For us gringos this was a “cultural experience”. But for portenos (the local people of Buenos Aires) – young, and old – this is what people love to do, and they do it until 4 or 5 or onwards in the morning!
Tango, salsa, theatre, good wine, superbly cooked meat; these things are sensual, sophisticated, and best done with careful deliberation. In Australia we may associate an appreciation of these things with the elite, the old or the rich. But here, it can be found for cheap, and is what makes up your average week for many portenos, including the young. It’s not just found in custom made theatres, but everywhere – in warehouse spaces, apartment buildings, gyms-turned-venue-for-the-weekend and restaurants.
The other day I participated in a tango class … and struggled! I usually love to dance, and don’t find it too difficult. And the steps in tango are simple – but it is the style that is maddeningly difficult to emulate (or channel? or capture?) There is a slow-burning sexuality required, in which your body is always taut.
Perhaps you can imagine that this is not really “me”. I am far more comfortable with dancing independently, whether that be ballet, hip-hop, funk, or even dancing to electronic music at a night club or indie-rock party. I found dancing with a partner an awkward experience.
My inability to dance tango – of which Argentina is the birthplace – I think serves as a great metaphor for the way the city and I see life differently. Buenos Aires is far more overtly sexy, and sensual than me. I am much more the frenetic, raw energy of London, the unadulterated weirdness of Berlin, or the kooky beauty of Barcelona. Y no estoy haciendo mi usualmente “cool hunting” aqui.
Nonetheless, I feel so lucky that I am to be able to play portena for three whole months! And my attitude here is when in Rome, do as the Romans. I’m sure this city has a thing or two to teach me, if not already!
